Manaslu Circuit Trek

The trek proper begins on the banks of the Budhi Gandaki, following the river upstream on a trail that crosses and recrosses it on long suspension bridges. The gorge is steep-sided and subtropical here, with waterfalls, bamboo and stands of banana, and the path is cut into the rock in places. You pass Khorlabesi and the hot springs at Tatopani, then climb over a ridge to Doban and on through Yaruphant. Jagat is a tidy stone-paved village and the site of the Manaslu Conservation Area checkpost, where your restricted-area permit is registered.

After village of Jagat we cross the Budi Gandaki on a large suspension bridge and climb steeply to Philim. The trail traverses the hillside and passes Ekle Bhatti (lonely teahouse) before crossing back over the river below the confluence of Budi Gandaki and Siyar Khola. From here we enter a dramatic section of the gorge high above the river. The trail makes its way up the west side of the valley and offers a pleasant walk through bamboo forests to the village of Deng. Stay overnight at teahouse.

Today the landscape changes character as you climb into the upper valley and into Tibetan-influenced country. The trail passes through Rana and Bihi Phedi, crosses the river and works up through forests of pine and rhododendron, with the gorge narrowing and the air cooling as you gain height. Mani walls, prayer flags and carved chortens appear beside the path, and the houses change to flat-roofed stone. Namrung, at 2,660m, sits behind an old stone gateway and gives the first proper views of Himalchuli and Ganesh Himal.

From Lho, we follow the right bank of the river with views of Peak 29 ahead. A couple of hours climbing through the forest bring us to the village of Shyala, offering superb views of Phungi, Manaslu and Him Chuli. Crossing a wide pasture with many marmots we enter the village of Samagaon. Our camp is at the top end of the village below the impressive Sama Gompa with impressive views of Manaslu. Stay overnight at teahouse.

A rest day at Samagaon is essential before the Larkya La, and the village is one of the most interesting on the circuit: a large Tibetan settlement of flat-roofed houses, with an old gompa, a monastery school and yak herds grazing on the flats. The best acclimatisation walk is the climb to Manaslu Base Camp, a demanding four to five hour ascent with close views of the eighth-highest mountain in the world. A gentler option is the hour’s walk to Birendra Lake, a milky glacial pool below the Manaslu glacier, or the short climb to Pungyen Gompa.

Follow the Budi Gandaki northwards to a bridge over a side stream where the trail forks; the left leading towards the Manaslu Base Camp, the other passing several mani walls heads for the Larkya La. The valley widens along an easy trail past juniper and birch forest to the stone huts at Kermo Kharka, and then drops off a shelf to cross a wooden bridge and climbing between forks in the river to a promontory. From this vantage point, one can see the white stone kani marking the entrance to Samdo. Stay overnight at teahouse.

 Today we start the ascent to the pass by descending through fields to an old mani wall and stone arch before dropping to the river and crossing on a wooden bridge. This place shows up on maps as the mythical Larka Bazaar, which used to be a flourishing market, but there is nothing remaining there now. Another mani wall marks the beginning of ascent to the pass where the trail starts climbing through tundra and juniper; the huge Larkya Glacier coming from Manaslu can be seen from here. Stay on the ridge to the right to find a trail that crosses over the top of two ravines. The trail grows steeper, climbing up the side of a gorge to a viewpoint at the edge of a huge gorge at 4000m. Nearing the larkya la glacier we reach to dharmasalD, where there is a small lodge, built to serve travellers crossing the Larkya La, which lies now just ahead. Stay overnight at teahouse.

After an early start, we soon reach the ablation valley on the left side of the Larkya Glacier with impressive views of Cho Danda and Larkya Peak. We continue walking along glacial moraine and start making the gradual ascent to the summit of the Larkya pass. From the top, there is a panorama view of Himlung Himal, Cheo Himal, Kang Guru and Annapurna II. On the descent the trail follows the top of the moraine to the west and makes a set of steep, rough switchbacks as it crosses the moraine then descends more gently on snow to a grassy moraine. Depending on the conditions if icy then crampons and ice axe are advisable for the descent. The trail now becomes easier to follow and reaches a small meadow and spring at 4,080m/13382ft. The valley becomes wider as the trails heads down to a large meadow, past a mani wall and a small rest house that marks Bimthang. Stay overnight at teahouse

After crossing the pastures of Bimthang the trail drops to a glacial stream at the headwaters of the Dudh Khola, crosses a wooden bridge and descends into pine and rhododendron forest. Not far from here you reach Karche's fenced fields, then cross a landslide before making a steep climb to a ridge decorated with prayer flags before making a descent to the riverbank at Gho. The trail continues through fields and intermittent stands of rhododendron and oak to arrive attilje and reach to Dharapani, a large Gurung village. Stay overnight at teahouse.

With the pass behind you and the trek finished at Dharapani, a jeep takes over for the rough road down the Marsyangdi valley. The track is cut into the gorge wall and the ride is bumpy and spectacular in equal measure, crossing suspension bridges and passing waterfalls, with the road improving as you descend through Tal, Syange and Bhulbhule. Besisahar is the district headquarters of Lamjung and the end of the mountain road, a busy strip of lodges and shops where you spend the night before the drive to Kathmandu.

The final drive follows the Marsyangdi down to Dumre, then joins the Prithvi Highway east along the Trishuli River back towards Kathmandu, through terraced hillsides, roadside bazaars and river valleys. It is a long day in the vehicle with stops for lunch and tea along the way, and the Manaslu and Ganesh Himal ranges are visible behind you on clear mornings. On arrival you are transferred to your hotel in Kathmandu, with the evening free to rest, celebrate with your crew or start shopping for souvenirs in Thamel.